“When a wave breaks around you, it puts everything into perspective.” Wild swimmer Jess on Porthtowan Beach, Cornwall.

 

In the wake of one of the fiercest storms to hit Britain in decades, bringing gale force winds and lashing rain for days, we finally encounter a burst of sunshine. The drive along narrow Cornish lanes takes us on a sharp turn down towards the seafront. The better weather front rolling in is fortuitous timing as we clamber out of the van to meet wild swimmer Jess. 

It feels fitting that we meet her on our way at the Mermaid of Zennor. The cafe is named after a Cornish folklore about a beautiful woman who is said to have turned into a mermaid, living in the sea forever more. 

Jess is dressed in black waterproof gear, including her big backpack looming over her shoulders. Her shoes and socks are a seaweed shade of green, adding a tint of colour. Jess’s wide grin is infectious.

You can already tell that she’s a seasoned swimming enthusiast, ready to persuade anyone to get in the water purely with her positive energy.

Jess grew up in Bristol, and she was always drawn to the outdoors. From an early age swimming became her favourite activity, alongside other sports such as snowboarding. Wanting to be more connected to nature brought her back to the South West. For almost a decade now, she’s called Cornwall home, and it’s here that her true love for wild swimming has bloomed.

Whenever she feels an urge, regardless of the water temperature or season, she will head out for a swim. This natural way of experiencing Britain’s waterways has become more popular recently. Jess takes us back to when it properly began for her.  

“I took up wild swimming throughout the year about two years ago. I lost my mum and was going through some hard times.”

As lockdown began during the pandemic, Jess heard about the huge benefits of cold-water swimming, something many people discovered that they could do close to home. 

She decided to keep going throughout the year and into winter, heading for a dip on a regular basis. Over time, she’s felt a transformational effect on her wellbeing. 

“When everything’s a bit much, jumping in cold water makes it feel so much more bearable and life always feels a bit lighter afterwards.”

We set off across the wide beach. The air is bracingly cold. In the distance, a wall of waves crashes onto the shoreline in a mesmerising chaotic rhythm. It’s visibly too dangerous to get into the sea today.  

Jess reiterates that it’s important when wild swimming to stay safe, to be aware of the conditions, as they can be changeable. Going with others is also best practice, particularly if you’re not an experienced swimmer. 

We’re on our way to a special tidal pool, tucked in a corner of Porthtowan Beach. Jess leads us, clambering over the rocks. Her curly auburn hair matches the rock face looming over us.

There’s a sense of anticipation before a cold-water swim, a mix of trepidation and elation. It’s a thrill to know you’re about to fight your basic instinct for comfort, in pursuit of a deeper fulfilment that you know awaits you on the other side. As Jess says, “you never ever regret a cold-water swim, it’s a fact.”  

Getting others to swim with her and experience the feeling themselves is a passion project. Jess has built up an informal swimming community at her workplace, the outdoor brand Finisterre. Their office is based on a clifftop with a beach just below so there really is no excuse not to get in. 

A thin line of blue appears, and the tidal pool becomes visible as we approach. It was created around 1905 by miners, using dynamite, intended for leisure swimming. There’s also a derelict engine house visible on the nearby hilltop, another reminder of Cornwall’s mining history. 

This corner of the beach is only accessible when the tide is low, with a limited timeframe. It’s a dynamic that creates a sense of urgency to get in, and a deeper awareness of the power of the sea. 

Wild swimming at its best instils awe and respect for the places you’re submerged in.

As we scramble to start getting unchanged, another girl wades in wearing a leopard swimming costume and smiles at us. These small moments of a shared experience are a reminder that through wild swimming you’ll always find like-minded people.

Jess changes quickly, throwing her dry robe out of her bag and soon stands in her Finisterre swimsuit. It has a personal significance for her. 

At Finisterre, she’s responsible for taking the women’s swimsuit and wetsuit designs from the design team and turning them into garments fit for purpose, including fitting them onto models for testing.

“It's important when designing a swimsuit to look at a woman's shape and to make sure that the design suits everybody, making panels that can adapt easily,” she says.

“People have different places of comfort. You need to find the right fabrics so that it makes the swim effortless, as well as using materials that are sustainable.”

As a wild swimmer herself, Jess has a unique insight into what makes swimwear better. She can help ensure it works for different types of environments, from rivers to natural pools, to the sea.

She is also aware of the barriers some people and especially women might feel when wanting to get in. We talk about how wild swimming can be a space for body positivity, while immersing in nature. 

“For me, it’s been a real confidence booster as you really don't care what you look like. You just strip off, get changed, and its’s just all about getting in the water which is very uplifting. Everyone is there for good reasons so there’s no negativity or judgement.”

She gets in and glides forwards effortlessly, creating circular ripples around the pool. Following her is a feat, as the stones underfoot are uneven and it’s easier to simply dive in.

Back in the sunshine at the centre of the pool, it’s a sublime setting in the aquamarine water. On the walls, the reflections flicker in the light. 

Swimming with Jess and the other swimmer, floating together, is the closest feeling to being a group of mermaids. Plunging underwater creates a heady rush, as you feel entirely at one with the water. 

Then the endorphins kick in and it becomes harder to leave. Jess tries to be intuitive when she gets out, depending on what feels right, but she doesn’t stay in too long in the colder months to be safe.

Wild swimming means experiencing the sea differently every time, and you never know exactly what you’ll get on a given day. The ever-changing conditions, from calm to choppy, draw Jess back. 

It’s a mindful experience, focusing entirely on your breathing and your surroundings, especially during a solo swim.  

“When a wave breaks around you, it puts everything into perspective. You realise how small we are on the planet and how powerful the ocean is.” 

Coming out of the tranquil pool, you can see a window to the bumbling sea. 

Jess gets changed into her dry robe and puts on a bright red hat. After being in cold water, the skin temperature drops and it’s important to have many layers ready. Her grin is just as wide as when we first met her.

“Getting in the water resets me and gives me more focus. When the day to day is so busy, it helps me to process things so much better with more clarity.”

There is a lot of research showing the huge mental health and health benefits of cold-water swimming, and often these go far beyond the swim itself.  

Jess demonstrates that it’s possible for any of us to go for a swim regularly. It’s a part of her lifestyle and daily routine. Wild swimming simply means getting in whenever you can, on a lunchbreak or after work, and she’s keen to spread the word.

“I feel very lucky to live here in Cornwall. Being in the sea can hugely improve mine and others’ mood, and I want to keep sharing that.”

Through swimming all year in the same nearby places, Jess has developed a deep emotional bond with the water. She will feel a yearning for it when she’s not there. 

“It means a lot to me. When I’m away from home, I usually come straight back to the beach and just stand looking out at the openness of the sea.”   

We climb back past clusters of barnacles and dark rockpools to walk across the beach. Jess waves us goodbye, and you can imagine her heading back to the office, her hair still dripping. 

Nearby, at the tidal pool, the waves will begin lapping against the outside wall, and gradually flood over to submerge it. And a new day will bring a fresh water supply, ready for another wild swimmer to take the plunge. 

You can find Jess on Instagram @jessmo1

 
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"We’ve got to change our relationship with nature in order to stop climate change.” Environmental campaigner Verel in Bristol.